NIBOSHI (Small Dried Fish)

Often described in English as dried sardines, the term niboshi, sometimes substituted for the synonymous word iriko, is in fact used to denote several types of small dried fish. The most popular of these is the katakuchi iwashi, or anchovy. Other commonly used species include ma iwashi (pilchard), urume iwashi (round herring) and kibinago, as well as fish often eaten in other forms, such as aji (horse mackerel), saba (mackerel) and tobiuo (flying fish). In each case, the fish are harvested when only a few centimeters in length before being dried. The dashi that is derived from niboshi is strong-tasting with a slightly bitter edge and is therefore best suited to robust-tasting dishes such as miso soup and nabe hotpots, as opposed to those where a delicate taste is required. It is possible to eliminate some of the bitterness of niboshi dashi by ensuring that the heads and entrails of the fish are removed before cooking. Furthermore by roasting the niboshi before making dashi the resulting stock will be more aromatic.
Rich in history, rich in minerals, rich in tasteThe fish used to make niboshi have been consumed by the Japanese since earliest times, and by the beginning of the Nara period (710-784) the boiling and drying techniques used to turn them into niboshi had been developed. By the beginning of the Edo period the popularity of niboshi was considerable. Due to the abundance in which they were caught they were available widely and cheaply and were therefore used to make stock by those who could not afford to buy katsuobushi or konbu. The way in which niboshi are prepared not only ensures that they can be preserved for a long time but also concentrates and deepens their flavour. The small fish are first of all boiled briefly in salted water to prevent deterioration, before being dried. This process causes the proteins in the fish to break down into amino acids and also increases levels of the nucleotide inosinate, which is one of the three main umami providing substances. Traditionally, the fish were laid out in the sun to dry and this method results in the highest possible levels of nutrients and flavour enhancing substances. The sheer volume of niboshi consumed in Japan nowadays, however, means that most are dried using special techniques that preserve as much of the goodness as possible. niboshi are rich in many different minerals, particularly calcium, which has traditionally been important for the Japanese given that their diet does not feature dairy products prominently. They are also rich in DHA, a substance that is required by the human brain and, if levels drop, can lead to increased risk of depression and Alzheimer’s disease. When selecting niboshi it is important to pay attention to their colour and shape. The fish should ideally have a surface skin that is attractive and shiny and any with a brownish tinge should be avoided as this is a sign that oxidization of fat is taking place. The risk of oxidization can be reduced by storing the niboshi in a frozen state. The body of each fish should be intact and any with a ruptured abdomen should be avoided.A flexible fishNboshi are perhaps most commonly associated with dashi, which involves cooking them briefly in water. The illustrations below depict the most common method of creating niboshi dashi, which involves using whole specimens. They are also sometimes pulverized in a food processor before being added to stock. In this form, they are sometimes mixed with katsuobushi to make furikake, a seasoning for rice. niboshi are also frequently enjoyed as they are as a tasty snack and are available ready mixed with almonds and other nuts to serve as an accompaniment to drinks. The katakuchi iwashi that are used to make niboshi also play an important role in the traditional Japanese New Year cuisine, known as o-sechi ryori. Here, they are served in a teriyaki style glaze of soy sauce, mirin, sugar and sesame seeds to create a dish known as tazukuri or gomame. Like other dishes served at New Year, tazukuri has a certain symbolism, in this case fertility and abundance, as fish were at one time used to fertilize crops in Japan.
How to make niboshi dashi
　Makes 3 cups　· 20g niboshi (dried sardines)　· 3 cups (600ml) water
Remove the heads and guts from the niboshi and place in a saucepan with the water.
Place over a medium heat, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat. Carefully remove any scum that forms on the surface.
Continue to simmer for 5-6 minutes, then strain.